Solitaire Namibia
Popular watering hole and stay-over place, at the junction of the C14 and C19 gravel
SOLITAIRE NAMIBIA. Popular watering hole and stay-over place, at the junction of the C14 and C19 gravel roads...
Solitaire Namibia and the C14 Gravel Road
Popular watering hole and stay-over place, at the junction of the C14 and C19 roads
Solitaire is a small settlement at the T-junction of the C14 and C19 gravel roads. Nevertheless, a welcome place for a stop over when journeying across the desert. There's puncture and mechanical repair facilities and a limited stock of tyres. The fuel station is manned daylight hours and the provisions shop opens until quite late. It's here that you might catch a glimpse of Big-Moose who bakes the "Moose Bread' and the renowned apple crumble that is only served without cream. Don't ask for any, because you'll get the stock answer that it's their cow's day of rest. Don't expect any hyper-activity here, it's not a place where you would want to allow your blood pressure to rise too.. high. Just relax and wait your turn. These guys are so laid-back that it can become infectious, and it's rumored that some of them never leave the shop, the cafe
or the restaurant at the end of the ...C19. There's good accommodation here at Solitaire and plenty of good camp areas, but not all are shaded, so you'd best book-in early. Solitaire is only 83 km north of the Sesriem-Gate . I found the ablution facilities here are clean and well maintained (what a pleasure!)
A Bit Of History: Christoffel van Coller built a small cottage near to the gravel road junction in 1948. Being so remote his good wife, Elsie, named the place Solitaire. In later years, a small shop and fuel facilities were added and the settlement grew. Solitaire gained an amount of interest following the publication of the book "Solitaire" by Dutch author Ton van der Lee. He seems to have conveyed the remoteness quite effectively as I have personally met tourists who have read the book and thus been 'inspired' to make the pilgrimage to this remote outpost.
About 40 km north of Solitaire on the C14 stands the Tropic Of Capricorn sign. My small mate asked what this was.
"OK. lets stop and climb out of the truck and have a look, and also take your photograph to show your mom and dad that you've been here."
"Thanks Keith. They'd like that." he said, and then continued to ask as to what the sign meant. Phew! Have you ever tried to explain something like this to a five year old? You know how it goes. "The earth tilts backwards and forwards..." followed by, "Why?" "Well..." "Why?" etc. ......
The nearest fuel point and shop is at Solitaire which is a 261 km drive from Walvis Bay , or 165 km from MaltahoheMaltahohe . Make sure that you have enough fuel and drinks. Take care when driving on the gravel road for on-coming vehicles, and sharp stones on the road surface. There are sections of the road where the desert winds cause the surface to become corrugated. Take extreme care if driving on this type of surface and approaching a bend. You can, literally, bounce your self off the road. During the rainy season it is wise to consult the traffic authority before commencing the journey. Following heavy rains the roads can suffer from wash away in the mountain areas and also where the desert surface is flat. The water from the desert can flash flood low areas of the road. This is particularly dangerous as the moving gravel offers little grip for vehicle tires and if the water flow is strong enough it can carry your vehicle along with it, sometimes with fatal results. Following heavy rains there are many areas of road that become covered in a slippery mud which also can cause spin-out even at relatively low speeds. A 4 x 4 won't help you on this surface.
After crossing the desert plains you drive onto the escarpment and then through the Kuiseb Pass. The drive across the highlands is rugged and picturesque. You then negotiate the Gaub Pass. Take care, there are no crash rails on the side of the road and the drop into the pass is a long way. At the bottom of the pass there is a scenic picnic area with a trash bin that's always overflowing, or been overturned by the baboons. You then drive up onto the highlands, and it is along this road that you may want to take a photograph of yourself standing by the Tropic Of Capricorn Sign. It's about 40 km north of Solitaire.
About 40 km south of Solitaire, as you approach the picturesque mountainous region of Bullsport, keep a look-out for the (dry) Travertine Waterfall. It's on your right-hand side . About 2 million years ago and through the Tertiary time Namibia experienced a much wetter climate and in areas of the Naukluft Mountains the ground water would run through the fissures in the rocks. These waters partly dissolved the carbonate rocks and when the water reached its outlet, such as below the dissolved minerals were deposited on the rock face. The resulting in a 'tuffa formation' as can seen on the Travertine Waterfall above left. The Naukluft Mountains have acted as an important water source for man since ancient times.
Further down the road you will pass the northern section of the Naukluft Mountains. From there on, to Maltahohe the road is not very interesting.
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